On Monday I spent the day with my uncle and his Norweigan friends again (the same Norweigan friends we went into the desert with). We basically roamed Yafo for the entire day. Because it was Easter (I COMPLETELY forgot), there were all these parades and festivals going on. I would say that most of the Arabs that are living in Yafo are Christian. There are all these small religious Arab Christian schools all over the country, and so youth groups from these schools came together to Yafo to march and play music. Weirdest thing ever? Seeing a bunch of young Arab kids wearing kilts and playing the bagpipes (these kids are from the Scottish Christian school).
On Tuesday I spent the day in Pardes Hana. This was going to be my last time seeing the town I lived in as a child before I return to the states. Most of my time was with the Berensteins (that enormous family that all babysat me and is still living in Pardes Hana). David, the only son in the family, had just gotten back from an eight-month long trip in Central and South America with his friend, Baruch. It's very typical for Israelis to go to South America for a year or so traveling after they get released from the army, which is exactly what David and Baruch did. Just when David got back, he started getting harassed by the army to enlist in reserve duty. Apparently that had been a source of great stress in the entire family. David is the only one who actually did the army (my mother calls their family the Draft Dodgers), and when he did enlist, everyone was shocked/disappointed. David finally decided that he wasn't going to do the reserve forces, that he was going to try to get out of it somehow. His sisters are all very proud of him. I ended up interviewing Ayelet, Miriam, David, and Baruch about the conflict. I have to say it was my favorite interview so far. Maybe it's because I know them really well and I love their group dynamic, but I felt like they weren't holding back and were saying very flatly realistic things. I'd already interviewed people who were sticking with the opposition no matter what happens, and people who are sticking with Israel no matter what happens, but the Berensteins were the first people that I interviewed that had a basic attitude of, "Screw it, we're out of here." I don't think they'll ever actually leave, but nevertheless their interview was as funny as it was interesting. Everyone made really great points.
I saw one of my mother's other friends who has known me for years and years that day, and then on Wednesday, my mom's friend Shulamit and I finished our banking stuff for the final time. We were quiet as she drove me to the train station. I don't feel sad or anything, and maybe that's because I haven't quite figured out how I feel about the whole 'home' situation, but I do know that years from now I can come back to Pardes Hana and still have the same feelings. Maybe I'm jinxing it, but I can't imagine Pardes Hana without eucalyptus trees, hippies (ha), or the Berensteins. I know eventually and probably people will move around, but the same feelings will always exist when I go back - that will never change.
On Tuesday night, I was online and put up a status on Facebook that I was going to be home next week. Mahmoud, one of the commune guys, read it and then promptly organized a 'party' at the commune for me. The adorable thing was he didn't exactly let any of the other commune guys know, so when I showed up at the offices yesterday afternoon, everyone gave me a big hug and a smile, but had NO idea what I was talking about when I mentioned a party. No one seemed to have an issue with it, but Mahmoud did not seem to think it important to let anyone else know.
The commune kids and other members of Sadaka-Reut were meeting with this Anti-Fascist group from Cologne, Germany. I wasn't at the meeting (I was writing my second article about racism in Israel), but I did go to dinner with everyone after. The Germans were really cool and really interested in Sadaka. They're doing a tour of the middle east to learn more about fascism. I think the fact that they chose to visit Israel should say something. We had dinner with them in the same Bulgarian restaurant that I had lunch with the commune kids when I first met them. I only realized then how happy I am that I am friends with them.
The soccer game between Madrid and Barcelona was that night, and Samer went over to my mentor Hana's house to watch it, while Ro'ee, Mahmoud, and Yotam and I stayed in the commune to watch it. We lost interest very quickly and instead put on Inglorious Basterds. Eventually we got bored with that as well (I know, impossible), and when Samer came back, we played a rousing round of hide-and-seek in the dark. This was just a recipe for disaster what with my drowsiness and giddiness, and I ended up slamming my foot up against something as I tried to beat Ro'ee to our base. Foot injuries seem to be abundant lately. The best thing is that it was the SAME FOOT AS LAST TIME. I woke up this morning and my foot was so swollen and sore it was hard to walk on it.
I really regret not pushing to live in the commune more. I think the combination of my not really knowing the boys very well as well as (I'm being completely honest here) the messiness kind of turned me off of it. Now, I feel very comfortable around all of them, and I guess they must have grown tired of stewing in their own filth (ha), because when we got to the apartment after dinner last night IT WAS CLEAN!!! WOOOOOOOOOOO! I was so proud of them.
I'm going to spend a couple nights there next week before I leave. Apparently, the five of us plus Diran are supposed to go to Nazareth on Saturday, which should be AWESOME. The details still need to be ironed out. In general I just wish I could spend more time with them. I'm glad I'm going home just on the I-miss-everyone-there level, but I do want the chance to spend more time and get even closer to these guys. They're all goofballs.
Everything's wrapping up, and this weekend I'll be seeing my people in Moda'in and Kfar Saba for the last time before I leave. At the same time, I'm working on the collection of interviews I have as well as the articles for Sadaka. I think I'm going to end up finishing them in Columbus, but it's looking really awesome. I'm very excited to be able to hand out copies of both to people in Columbus and send them to Sadaka and everyone I interviewed. It will be a very tangible and physical way of validating my time here, even though I know I don't need a paper to do that.
Thursday, April 28, 2011
Saturday, April 23, 2011
The Negev + Camera Party
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| Weird storm clouds over the Negev? |
I love the Negev so much. It's a rocky, barren, empty, mountainous, beautiful place. When we got there, it was raining (??) but it's Desert rain - even when it touches you it feels absurdly dry. Regardless, the rain cooled off the desert quite a bit, so it was actually cold while we climbed/camped. Also, I am a mountain goat. I can climb any rocky Negev mountain, and I love to do so. Johanna, who understands English but was too shy to speak it was also a goat - she and I wordlessly bonded as we climbed ahead of the group a good fifteen minutes.
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| We walk to the ravine. |
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| Doesn't it kind of look like they're all sitting in a mouth? I climbed up the other side of the ravine to get this picture. |
While Tara, Johanna, Maria, and I gathered around the fire to warm us up (SO COLD in the desert after the sun sets!!), the three of them taught me some Norweigan (Tara was born in Norway but speaks Hebrew at home with her mother). It turns out that Norweigan, Swedish, and Danish (so basically, the Scandanavian languages) are all very similar to each other, it's just that they pronounce their words much differently. To say "what is your name" and "my name is" in Norweigan is practically saying the same thing in Danish, just pronouncing it differently. I realized as we were talking (in English - Maria and Johanna didn't know Hebrew) that I really didn't know a whole lot about the Scandanavian countries, and I'd like to know more.
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| Our campsite. (My own personal tent is the second to the left - the orange one.) |
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| Some camels and their Bedouin herder wandered across our campsite...or their desert... |
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| Tal and the Bedouin herder |
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| Tara and Maria climb down to our perch. |
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| I'm standing (black shirt and blue shorts) as Niels helps Tara, Johanna, and Maria down into the pool. Alon is taking the picture from up above at our group's perch. |
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| A little later in our hike, on the path that leads down to the most beautiful spot in the world. |
You fell asleep in a beautiful, silent, windy emptiness. You wake up and the desert is transformed - the sun has scoured all cracks and corners and blasted them with light. Where the wind made your sleep almost unbearably cold, now it's pleasantly cool, like a crisp September morning in Columbus, Ohio. Even though you're full of sand and every part of your body aches from the hike and the night before, with the sun awake happy people who have flourished in the desert, who have awoken wiht the sun and twinkled in its' rays. And though you should be crabby (you'd like some plumbing and perhaps a back massage), you're not, because the nature (or lack thereof) of the desert and the happy contentedness of your fellow campers ensures that you're not only happy, you're at peace.
After our second hike, we changed into dry clothes and then drove to a park in Arad, one of the most confusing cities I have seen since I've been here. It's smack dab in the middle of one of the driest deserts ever, but it's blooming with flowers. I assume there's under-ground irrigation, because otherwise I can't fathom how there is an abundance of trees and colorful flowers in almost every garden. I digress. In the park, we laid out any remaining food from the night before (there was a lot of it) and gorged ourselves, which felt really great after two very good physical excursions. We sat and ate and talked and then rested and had our last cup of watery coffee before saying our goodbyes and making our separate ways - one car to Pardes Hana (I'll be seeing them later this week), one car to a hotel near the Dead Sea, and one car back to Ramat Gan, where I am now showered and un-dusty. I know I'm leaving in two weeks and I'm very happy about seeing my family and friends again and about graduating and finishing up this wonderful Walkabout process, but that morning as we drove away from our campsite, I realized that the parts of Israel that I connect with most are the parts where I feel most like myself.
Thursday, April 21, 2011
Exhausted Sleep Times
Last night an obnoxious and completely childish mosquito kept me up by buzzing in my ear every half hour or so so that I only got about two and a half hours of accumulative sleep, and as we all know, accumulative sleep is the worst kind of sleep, especially if there's only two and a half hours of it.
I woke up at 8:20, got myself ready for a difficult day (soooo tired), and then took the bus to Jerusalem. Maybe it was because I was so sleep deprived, but for some reason I found myself NOT overanalyzing every possible outcome of the bus travel, NOT freaking out that I didn't know EXACTLY where it was going to drop me off, and NOT panicking at all in general. I'd like to think that that's me having grown up in the past two months, but it could also have been that horrible mosquito.
I came to Jerusalem today to interview my mother's uncle Rueven Kaminer, who's basically an Israeli-Palestinian conflict scholar. He's very famous. Howard Zinn mentioned him in his forward for the People's History of the United States. (Fun fact: Matan, my mentor from La Escuelita, and Rueven's grandson, translated the People's History of the United States from English to Hebrew. As in, anyone who's reading the Hebrew copy has only done so because Matan is awesome.)
Rueven made some really interesting points in the interview. When I asked him what he believed to be the root of the conflict, he said it was ultimately that there were two national movements from two different groups of people pushing for the same tiny piece of land. In Europe, as consequence of the Diaspora, the Jews were developing Zionism, and the Arab world all around what was then called "The Holy Land" was going through independence movements from whatever Empire they were suffering occupation from at the time. (Automan...British...who knows?)
After the interview I had lunch with Rueven and his wife Dafna (who is my grandfather's sister) and after a short nap (they napped, I was stupid and for some reason didn't), we went to a very interesting art museum in Jerusalem. It was a social modern art museum, so their current exhibit was all to do with protest rights. It was AWESOME. After that, Rueven showed me some neighborhoods in Jerusalem where Hasidic Jews have somehow managed to get their hands on court orders that the neighborhood houses actually belong to them and not the Arabs that live there. There was one house we saw where it was literally divided into two - the front room was for the Israelis and the back room was for the Arabs. HOW IS THAT POSSIBLE?! I asked him if there was a lot of violence between the Jews and the Arabs in those neighborhoods and he told me that there have been some occasions, but the police are REALLY diligent in those areas. After that we had dinner and it was lovely.
Tomorrow Udi and Alon and their friends and I are going to the DESERT to go camping for a night. I literally know what I am doing for the next two weeks. Now I'm too exhausted to even digest anything that happened to me today (I helped three loud, slightly ignorant and stupid American college frat boys - it was quite funny. They didn't know what street they were staying on. I told them that was probably something they should figure out, and fast. I also told them not to take a cab, because the cab driver would take one look at these buzzed, Jewish American college boys and charge them like, 50 shekels each to get from one side of Tel Aviv to the other (it should only really cost 50 or 60 tops).). <--That was a long parentheses.
Rueven gave me a copy of one of the many books he has written on the subject. It's called The Politics of Protest: The Israeli Peace Movement and the Palestinian Intifada. I think we already have a copy of it at home. In either case, I want to find another copy to give to Tom, because I think it'd be really useful to his class on radicalism, even though it's not American radicalism.
Also, in other news, I hate all insects. Stupid mosquito. I swear, when he landed on my face and I flipped out and my toe hit the corner of my laptop and now it's BLOODIED AND THE TOE NAIL IS RIPPED, I could HEAR THE MOSQUITO LAUGHING AT ME.
Sleep....
I woke up at 8:20, got myself ready for a difficult day (soooo tired), and then took the bus to Jerusalem. Maybe it was because I was so sleep deprived, but for some reason I found myself NOT overanalyzing every possible outcome of the bus travel, NOT freaking out that I didn't know EXACTLY where it was going to drop me off, and NOT panicking at all in general. I'd like to think that that's me having grown up in the past two months, but it could also have been that horrible mosquito.
I came to Jerusalem today to interview my mother's uncle Rueven Kaminer, who's basically an Israeli-Palestinian conflict scholar. He's very famous. Howard Zinn mentioned him in his forward for the People's History of the United States. (Fun fact: Matan, my mentor from La Escuelita, and Rueven's grandson, translated the People's History of the United States from English to Hebrew. As in, anyone who's reading the Hebrew copy has only done so because Matan is awesome.)
Rueven made some really interesting points in the interview. When I asked him what he believed to be the root of the conflict, he said it was ultimately that there were two national movements from two different groups of people pushing for the same tiny piece of land. In Europe, as consequence of the Diaspora, the Jews were developing Zionism, and the Arab world all around what was then called "The Holy Land" was going through independence movements from whatever Empire they were suffering occupation from at the time. (Automan...British...who knows?)
After the interview I had lunch with Rueven and his wife Dafna (who is my grandfather's sister) and after a short nap (they napped, I was stupid and for some reason didn't), we went to a very interesting art museum in Jerusalem. It was a social modern art museum, so their current exhibit was all to do with protest rights. It was AWESOME. After that, Rueven showed me some neighborhoods in Jerusalem where Hasidic Jews have somehow managed to get their hands on court orders that the neighborhood houses actually belong to them and not the Arabs that live there. There was one house we saw where it was literally divided into two - the front room was for the Israelis and the back room was for the Arabs. HOW IS THAT POSSIBLE?! I asked him if there was a lot of violence between the Jews and the Arabs in those neighborhoods and he told me that there have been some occasions, but the police are REALLY diligent in those areas. After that we had dinner and it was lovely.
Tomorrow Udi and Alon and their friends and I are going to the DESERT to go camping for a night. I literally know what I am doing for the next two weeks. Now I'm too exhausted to even digest anything that happened to me today (I helped three loud, slightly ignorant and stupid American college frat boys - it was quite funny. They didn't know what street they were staying on. I told them that was probably something they should figure out, and fast. I also told them not to take a cab, because the cab driver would take one look at these buzzed, Jewish American college boys and charge them like, 50 shekels each to get from one side of Tel Aviv to the other (it should only really cost 50 or 60 tops).). <--That was a long parentheses.
Rueven gave me a copy of one of the many books he has written on the subject. It's called The Politics of Protest: The Israeli Peace Movement and the Palestinian Intifada. I think we already have a copy of it at home. In either case, I want to find another copy to give to Tom, because I think it'd be really useful to his class on radicalism, even though it's not American radicalism.
Also, in other news, I hate all insects. Stupid mosquito. I swear, when he landed on my face and I flipped out and my toe hit the corner of my laptop and now it's BLOODIED AND THE TOE NAIL IS RIPPED, I could HEAR THE MOSQUITO LAUGHING AT ME.
Sleep....
Tuesday, April 19, 2011
Passover in Israel
On Monday I woke up early to catch the train to the South before the massive onslaught of people rushed towards public transportation. Yesterday was Erev Hag (the evening before the holiday officially starts), so public transportation stops in the afternoon. I was advised to catch my train early to make sure I wouldn't be smooshed between thousands of people.
I got into Ashkelon around 11:00 and I waited for Rina, my adopted Israeli grandmother (as in she was my dad's host mother when HE was doing Arab-Jewish relation work stuff, and I have known her since I was tiny and she is all grandmotherly to me) to pick me up. And she did and then we went back to her apartment which I remember from when I was very little (the balcony overlooks the SEEEAAAA) where we had coffee and pieces of cheesecake and chatted and it was lovely.
For Passover, Jews do this marvelously boring and torturous tradition called the Seder, where you read from a book called the Hagadah all about, you know, ye olde Moses leading the Israelites out of Egypt. I realized that it's really not a fun holiday, Passover, especially for people who are religious - the stress level is high in the days leading up to Erev Hag. Because the Israelites left Egypt in such a rush, they didn't have time to let the dough for the bread rise, and thus matzah was born, this gross, salty unleavened bread. So, to commemorate the hard work and toil our ancestors went through, Jews are technically not supposed to eat leavened bread for a week, so this includes completely cleaning every nook and cranny of your house for any kind of leavened bread crumbs. It's quite stressful.
OBVIOUSLY this is not something my particular family does - not eat bread for a whole week/clean out our entire house. But we do a cripplingly long Seder, and it's always the same feeling - prayer after prayer after prayer - now you dip the parsley in the saltwater, eat the egg now children, matzah with charoset, matzah with maror, opening the door for Eliyahu, three cups of wine, the ten plagues (one drop of wine on your plate for each one), and then FINALLY after a rousing chorus of Dayenu, you get to EAT!
Rina and her husband Avraham and I went to Avraham's daughter's house for the Seder, and their Seder was faster than my family's, which I found terribly impressive. The food was amazing, and it was a perfect spring evening in Israel - it had been unbearably hot that day, but it had cooled off to a dry heat with a cool breeze.
At the beginning of the Seder I was feeling very lonely and homesick - maybe it was because all of the sudden there were thirty new people I had to meet and I was the only one who didn't know everyone else and it all reminded me a lot of my family. Seven weeks is a long time, and it was made worse by the fact that I had spoken to my parents that day earlier and they were in Virginia doing Passover with my dad's side of the family. I felt strange, especially when I talked to my cousin, knowing that I'd be doing something differently than them this year.
But as I was sitting and trying to follow along with the Hebrew of the Seder (I could understand a lot more than I thought I could, and definitely more if I just sat and listened than tried to read), I realized that whenever I was feeling lonely and homesick and panicked and sorry for myself, I had lost my sense of humor, a tool EXTREMELY necessary for whenever you're traveling. After that, it was like everything changed - I was speaking to everyone in Hebrew and holding long conversations with all of Avraham's grandchildren (I completely surprised myself with the lack of language issues I had) and having a spectacular time. When I got home I was really, really proud of myself at how well I was able to turn my attitude around.
Today we spent the day at Rina's son's house, where Rina's son was barbecuing and there was, once again, loads of amazing food, and lots and lots of people. Once more I felt the pity rise as I was overwhelmed by all the new people I was going to be meeting and expected to speak to, but I made myself snap myself out of it and speak to everyone in Hebrew and calmly and coolly ask for words I didn't remember/know/understand. I spent time with Rina's oldest granddaughter (that was there - Rina has a daughter who, and I don't know how to say this in Hebrew exactly but I know what its' translation is in English, 'returned to the religion', meaning she was secular and then she became orthodox. Rina's oldest grandchild is 20 and just got married), who is fourteen and really sweet and nice, and we spoke to each other in Hebrew and once again I was very proud.
Being with Rina has once more cemented my conclusion that the conflict is far more convoluted than I had originally anticipated and that both arguments have merit. I mentioned something about "Palestinians in Yafo" and then Rina perked up and said "there's no such thing. You mean Israeli Arabs." I realized that because the Arabs in Yafo have Israeli citizenship and live within the borders of Israel and not the Occupied Territories, they aren't TECHNICALLY Palestinians. I also remembered what my mentor Hana had said about that, "If you call us Palestinians, you're making a political statement." I had always called them Palestinians because that was what they liked to be called, and I don't want to offend anyone. When Rina was speaking about the issue (and when my mother and I were speaking about it on the phone as well) I realized the hedginess of the entire situation - if there is a two-state solution, will the Arabs in Yafo pick up and go to the borders of the new Palestine and renounce their Israeli citizenship? It's a tough question, and I'm not sure how well any of the Palestinians I'm working with are able to answer.
There is one thing that I have concluded concretely: the amount of racism rising within the Israeli people is really, really frightening. I'm talking segregation and propaganda type racism, like people are saying they won't sell to Arabs or hire Arabs. That kind of racism. It really scares me.
I used to think (and by used to I mean within the past month since I've been working with Sadaka) that I had a bit of Stockholm Syndrom - I don't support Israeli policies but I get angry at people who bash Israel. Now I'm realizing that the people I'm getting angry at aren't actually Israelis or Palestinians or 'Arabs in Israel' or anything - they're people outside of Israel who are bashing Israel. There have been a couple instances where I have seen, heard, or spoken to Americans who started bashing Israel. This is my conclusion:
It's not cool to side with Israel and it's not cool to side with the Palestinians if you don't know what you're talking about. Before I got here, I was really, really hesitant to give my opinion simply because I didn't know enough to back up my opinion. It's the same thing now. I really don't trust an American's opinion about the subject unless they have learned about it. I would only accept an American's opinion on the conflict if they were confused, hesitant, flip-floppy, and afraid to offend anyone. That shows that they are aware that they really don't know a whole lot about it, and thus they can see both arguments. Americans who go ahead and decide without hearing both sides clearly and without hearing them from actual Israelis or Palestinians? It's not cool, it's stupid. The conflict is INSANE and CRAZY and COMPLICATED and has sooooo many sub issues. It's especially not cool to take my word for it. I would HATE that any of my friends or peers would make up their minds on this conflict based on MY experiences. Educate yourself.
I got into Ashkelon around 11:00 and I waited for Rina, my adopted Israeli grandmother (as in she was my dad's host mother when HE was doing Arab-Jewish relation work stuff, and I have known her since I was tiny and she is all grandmotherly to me) to pick me up. And she did and then we went back to her apartment which I remember from when I was very little (the balcony overlooks the SEEEAAAA) where we had coffee and pieces of cheesecake and chatted and it was lovely.
For Passover, Jews do this marvelously boring and torturous tradition called the Seder, where you read from a book called the Hagadah all about, you know, ye olde Moses leading the Israelites out of Egypt. I realized that it's really not a fun holiday, Passover, especially for people who are religious - the stress level is high in the days leading up to Erev Hag. Because the Israelites left Egypt in such a rush, they didn't have time to let the dough for the bread rise, and thus matzah was born, this gross, salty unleavened bread. So, to commemorate the hard work and toil our ancestors went through, Jews are technically not supposed to eat leavened bread for a week, so this includes completely cleaning every nook and cranny of your house for any kind of leavened bread crumbs. It's quite stressful.
OBVIOUSLY this is not something my particular family does - not eat bread for a whole week/clean out our entire house. But we do a cripplingly long Seder, and it's always the same feeling - prayer after prayer after prayer - now you dip the parsley in the saltwater, eat the egg now children, matzah with charoset, matzah with maror, opening the door for Eliyahu, three cups of wine, the ten plagues (one drop of wine on your plate for each one), and then FINALLY after a rousing chorus of Dayenu, you get to EAT!
Rina and her husband Avraham and I went to Avraham's daughter's house for the Seder, and their Seder was faster than my family's, which I found terribly impressive. The food was amazing, and it was a perfect spring evening in Israel - it had been unbearably hot that day, but it had cooled off to a dry heat with a cool breeze.
At the beginning of the Seder I was feeling very lonely and homesick - maybe it was because all of the sudden there were thirty new people I had to meet and I was the only one who didn't know everyone else and it all reminded me a lot of my family. Seven weeks is a long time, and it was made worse by the fact that I had spoken to my parents that day earlier and they were in Virginia doing Passover with my dad's side of the family. I felt strange, especially when I talked to my cousin, knowing that I'd be doing something differently than them this year.
But as I was sitting and trying to follow along with the Hebrew of the Seder (I could understand a lot more than I thought I could, and definitely more if I just sat and listened than tried to read), I realized that whenever I was feeling lonely and homesick and panicked and sorry for myself, I had lost my sense of humor, a tool EXTREMELY necessary for whenever you're traveling. After that, it was like everything changed - I was speaking to everyone in Hebrew and holding long conversations with all of Avraham's grandchildren (I completely surprised myself with the lack of language issues I had) and having a spectacular time. When I got home I was really, really proud of myself at how well I was able to turn my attitude around.
Today we spent the day at Rina's son's house, where Rina's son was barbecuing and there was, once again, loads of amazing food, and lots and lots of people. Once more I felt the pity rise as I was overwhelmed by all the new people I was going to be meeting and expected to speak to, but I made myself snap myself out of it and speak to everyone in Hebrew and calmly and coolly ask for words I didn't remember/know/understand. I spent time with Rina's oldest granddaughter (that was there - Rina has a daughter who, and I don't know how to say this in Hebrew exactly but I know what its' translation is in English, 'returned to the religion', meaning she was secular and then she became orthodox. Rina's oldest grandchild is 20 and just got married), who is fourteen and really sweet and nice, and we spoke to each other in Hebrew and once again I was very proud.
Being with Rina has once more cemented my conclusion that the conflict is far more convoluted than I had originally anticipated and that both arguments have merit. I mentioned something about "Palestinians in Yafo" and then Rina perked up and said "there's no such thing. You mean Israeli Arabs." I realized that because the Arabs in Yafo have Israeli citizenship and live within the borders of Israel and not the Occupied Territories, they aren't TECHNICALLY Palestinians. I also remembered what my mentor Hana had said about that, "If you call us Palestinians, you're making a political statement." I had always called them Palestinians because that was what they liked to be called, and I don't want to offend anyone. When Rina was speaking about the issue (and when my mother and I were speaking about it on the phone as well) I realized the hedginess of the entire situation - if there is a two-state solution, will the Arabs in Yafo pick up and go to the borders of the new Palestine and renounce their Israeli citizenship? It's a tough question, and I'm not sure how well any of the Palestinians I'm working with are able to answer.
There is one thing that I have concluded concretely: the amount of racism rising within the Israeli people is really, really frightening. I'm talking segregation and propaganda type racism, like people are saying they won't sell to Arabs or hire Arabs. That kind of racism. It really scares me.
I used to think (and by used to I mean within the past month since I've been working with Sadaka) that I had a bit of Stockholm Syndrom - I don't support Israeli policies but I get angry at people who bash Israel. Now I'm realizing that the people I'm getting angry at aren't actually Israelis or Palestinians or 'Arabs in Israel' or anything - they're people outside of Israel who are bashing Israel. There have been a couple instances where I have seen, heard, or spoken to Americans who started bashing Israel. This is my conclusion:
It's not cool to side with Israel and it's not cool to side with the Palestinians if you don't know what you're talking about. Before I got here, I was really, really hesitant to give my opinion simply because I didn't know enough to back up my opinion. It's the same thing now. I really don't trust an American's opinion about the subject unless they have learned about it. I would only accept an American's opinion on the conflict if they were confused, hesitant, flip-floppy, and afraid to offend anyone. That shows that they are aware that they really don't know a whole lot about it, and thus they can see both arguments. Americans who go ahead and decide without hearing both sides clearly and without hearing them from actual Israelis or Palestinians? It's not cool, it's stupid. The conflict is INSANE and CRAZY and COMPLICATED and has sooooo many sub issues. It's especially not cool to take my word for it. I would HATE that any of my friends or peers would make up their minds on this conflict based on MY experiences. Educate yourself.
Sunday, April 17, 2011
The 15 Things I Love About Living Here
After 25 things that strike me as odd and amusing, I have decided to dedicate this journal entry to the 15 things I absolutely adore about living in this country.
1. The heat. Granted, most people find this to be the thing they hate about Israel the most, but for some reason the heat here carries really great memories of summer vacations here. Today is the first really unbearably hot day. It's like yesterday someone just pushed the 'on' button for summer. I went outside to do some grocery shopping for my Uncles and I and I came back sweaty. Win?
2. Eucalyptus trees. Ohhh my God they are my favorite kind of trees in the world. They smell amazing and remind me of my childhood. Whenever I see one, or even a tree that mildly looks like one, in any part of the world, I immediately think of Israel, even though they didn't even grow naturally here (imported from Australia).
3. In that same respect, I love the grass here. It's softer than the grass in Columbus, and I don't know how that makes sense, but it's marvelous.
4. THE BEACH. On Friday, Ortal and I went to the beach together. We took a bus from Kfar Saba to Herzeliyah, this gorgeous town right on the beach. The bus was filled with chattering middle schoolers. Ortal lamented that if she had her license (it's a much more complicated system to getting your license here in Israel, and a major topic of conversation with me and people my age) we wouldn't be stuck standing on a bus full of "juveniles" as she called them. Anyway, the beach was amazing (breaking out the bikini was NOT), and the water was a tad cool, but I was brave and got in all the way, while Ortal took her SWEET TIME. When we got out of the water we laid on the sand in the sun. I have re-learned some very important things: 1) while Ortal can lay in the sun for three hours without getting even a major tan, I cannot. 2) Sunscreen should be applied vigorously every twenty minutes. 3) Sunburns hurt. Yes, everyone, the entire back of me is red and angry with me, but luckily when my body gets sunburned, it doesn't peel or look terribly gross, it just itches slightly and fades into a nice tan. Regardless, the beach was amazing.
5. The Negev. Okay, granted I have not been there yet in my current time in Israel, but next weekend my Uncles and I and their friends from Norway are going to spend a night in the desert. I assume we will be hiking and eating in amazing Bedouine restaurants. Some people absolutey hate the desert, but for some reason I love it. I really shouldn't - everything that bothers me about a place is in the Negev, but against all likelihood, I am in love with the desert - every time I go I feel amazing. I love the endless stretches of rocky abyss and the random growth of trees in the most unexpected places and the nights, where the entire sky opens up and you can see every star and the breeze is cool. I am excited to go with my Uncles - it'll be about a week or so before I have to leave, and I think it's good I'm going at least once.
6. The food. Mmmm. Did you know tomatoes and cucumbers are way better here than they are in Columbus? And there's incredible cheese called White Cheese that is the Israeli form of cream cheese but way less creamy and way better?
7. Getting around on my own/my independence. The last two times I have been out of the country (including this time), I have developed an independence which includes being able to get around by myself. I love the first part of this because I am free to do what I want pretty much whenever I want (re-entry issues to come, I can tell), and the second part of this because I feel less like a tourist when I know where the Central Bus Station is and how to get there and that the 63 stops running at 10:30 and to keep your ticket for the trains because otherwise you won't be able to exit the train station. It was the same in Germany. I can remember being happy with myself that I knew how to get around when my Dad visited me in May and being able to tell him that we could take the number 1 tram or the number 2 or switch here, bla bla bla.
8. Mizrahi music. I know a lot of people don't actually like Mizrahi music, but I reeeeaaallly do. I don't know why. I LIKE Middle Eastern music, but not a lot of Ashkenazi Israelis do. (Quick tutorial: outside of Israel, it only matters if you're Jewish, but inside Israel, Jews come from all over the world. Ashkenazi Jews are white, coming from Eastern Europe, Sephardic Jews tend to be darker, and Mizrahi Jews come from other parts of the Middle East - like Northern Africa and Yemen, etc.) I wouldn't listen to Mizrahi music on my own, but I like hearing it in the streets. It's cheesy, corny Middle Eastern beats and melodies paired up with pop styles. Here's a pretty good example of what you might here on a bus in Israel: Sarit Hadad Live in Caesariyah
9. The smell of Israeli detergent when your clothes are dry. Don't ask why.
10. The abrupt smell of Arab hookah on the streets in Yafo. I also like when you're walking underneath an apartment building and you can smell the aforementioned laundry detergent. When you look up, you see clothes drying from the balconies of apartments above you.
11. The eclectic nature of Yafo. Palestinians, Ethiopians, Russians, Israelis. Everyone.
12. Making friends at Sadaka-Reut. (: AWWWWWWW.
13. Learning the slang - "bah-li" is directly translated as "it comes to me" but it actually means "I feel like." Yesterday as me and my friend Shaked and her friend Danielle sat on the roof of her apartment building listening to dance music and eating chocolate, Shaked said "Bah-li misibah" which means "I feel like partying." Also: "mah hakesher" is what you say when someone says something random. It means "what's the connection". I already mentioned that the Israeli word for 'wow' is actually 'eyooo'. Also, girls say to each other "achoti" which means "my sister" and boys say to each other "achi" which means "my brother". Everyone also calls each other "mammi" or "coosh-coosh". Also, everyone in Israel says "oh my God". The translation in Hebrew would be "Elohim" but I hardly hear anyone saying that - they just say it in English. Also - this is weird, when Americans would usually scream "YES!" when something good happens, the Israelis scream "YESH!". 'Yesh' in Hebrew means 'there is', so it doesn't really make sense, along with most of the slang.
14. Friday night dinners. My family and I used to have Friday night dinners with each other every week in America, but when I got into high school sometimes I'd go out with friends. Either way, my family and I usually do the Israeli thing of having dinner together on Friday nights and lighting the Shabbat candles, blessing the wine and bread. I have now learned that in Judaism you're technically supposed to have two kinds of meat and two kinds of starch on Friday night dinners (my family sticks to chicken and potatoes), and so what ends up happening is that you roll out of your chair in the end, having stuffed yourself on rice, potatoes, chicken, meat balls, two different kinds of salads, couscous, and bread. HEALTH!
15. The way that the entire country (at least the Jewish portion of it) is quiet on Saturdays. I woke up on a Saturday in my Uncles' apartment in Tel Aviv last week and all I could hear were children playing and people laughing - no cars, no buses, no construction workers. It's lovely. It's the same kind of quiet that happens around 5:00 in the afternoon (right about when I'm writing this). Before kids go out to meet their friends at night and before parents get home from work, the streets are relatively empty and everyone who's not working is resting.
1. The heat. Granted, most people find this to be the thing they hate about Israel the most, but for some reason the heat here carries really great memories of summer vacations here. Today is the first really unbearably hot day. It's like yesterday someone just pushed the 'on' button for summer. I went outside to do some grocery shopping for my Uncles and I and I came back sweaty. Win?
2. Eucalyptus trees. Ohhh my God they are my favorite kind of trees in the world. They smell amazing and remind me of my childhood. Whenever I see one, or even a tree that mildly looks like one, in any part of the world, I immediately think of Israel, even though they didn't even grow naturally here (imported from Australia).
3. In that same respect, I love the grass here. It's softer than the grass in Columbus, and I don't know how that makes sense, but it's marvelous.
4. THE BEACH. On Friday, Ortal and I went to the beach together. We took a bus from Kfar Saba to Herzeliyah, this gorgeous town right on the beach. The bus was filled with chattering middle schoolers. Ortal lamented that if she had her license (it's a much more complicated system to getting your license here in Israel, and a major topic of conversation with me and people my age) we wouldn't be stuck standing on a bus full of "juveniles" as she called them. Anyway, the beach was amazing (breaking out the bikini was NOT), and the water was a tad cool, but I was brave and got in all the way, while Ortal took her SWEET TIME. When we got out of the water we laid on the sand in the sun. I have re-learned some very important things: 1) while Ortal can lay in the sun for three hours without getting even a major tan, I cannot. 2) Sunscreen should be applied vigorously every twenty minutes. 3) Sunburns hurt. Yes, everyone, the entire back of me is red and angry with me, but luckily when my body gets sunburned, it doesn't peel or look terribly gross, it just itches slightly and fades into a nice tan. Regardless, the beach was amazing.
5. The Negev. Okay, granted I have not been there yet in my current time in Israel, but next weekend my Uncles and I and their friends from Norway are going to spend a night in the desert. I assume we will be hiking and eating in amazing Bedouine restaurants. Some people absolutey hate the desert, but for some reason I love it. I really shouldn't - everything that bothers me about a place is in the Negev, but against all likelihood, I am in love with the desert - every time I go I feel amazing. I love the endless stretches of rocky abyss and the random growth of trees in the most unexpected places and the nights, where the entire sky opens up and you can see every star and the breeze is cool. I am excited to go with my Uncles - it'll be about a week or so before I have to leave, and I think it's good I'm going at least once.
6. The food. Mmmm. Did you know tomatoes and cucumbers are way better here than they are in Columbus? And there's incredible cheese called White Cheese that is the Israeli form of cream cheese but way less creamy and way better?
7. Getting around on my own/my independence. The last two times I have been out of the country (including this time), I have developed an independence which includes being able to get around by myself. I love the first part of this because I am free to do what I want pretty much whenever I want (re-entry issues to come, I can tell), and the second part of this because I feel less like a tourist when I know where the Central Bus Station is and how to get there and that the 63 stops running at 10:30 and to keep your ticket for the trains because otherwise you won't be able to exit the train station. It was the same in Germany. I can remember being happy with myself that I knew how to get around when my Dad visited me in May and being able to tell him that we could take the number 1 tram or the number 2 or switch here, bla bla bla.
8. Mizrahi music. I know a lot of people don't actually like Mizrahi music, but I reeeeaaallly do. I don't know why. I LIKE Middle Eastern music, but not a lot of Ashkenazi Israelis do. (Quick tutorial: outside of Israel, it only matters if you're Jewish, but inside Israel, Jews come from all over the world. Ashkenazi Jews are white, coming from Eastern Europe, Sephardic Jews tend to be darker, and Mizrahi Jews come from other parts of the Middle East - like Northern Africa and Yemen, etc.) I wouldn't listen to Mizrahi music on my own, but I like hearing it in the streets. It's cheesy, corny Middle Eastern beats and melodies paired up with pop styles. Here's a pretty good example of what you might here on a bus in Israel: Sarit Hadad Live in Caesariyah
9. The smell of Israeli detergent when your clothes are dry. Don't ask why.
10. The abrupt smell of Arab hookah on the streets in Yafo. I also like when you're walking underneath an apartment building and you can smell the aforementioned laundry detergent. When you look up, you see clothes drying from the balconies of apartments above you.
11. The eclectic nature of Yafo. Palestinians, Ethiopians, Russians, Israelis. Everyone.
12. Making friends at Sadaka-Reut. (: AWWWWWWW.
13. Learning the slang - "bah-li" is directly translated as "it comes to me" but it actually means "I feel like." Yesterday as me and my friend Shaked and her friend Danielle sat on the roof of her apartment building listening to dance music and eating chocolate, Shaked said "Bah-li misibah" which means "I feel like partying." Also: "mah hakesher" is what you say when someone says something random. It means "what's the connection". I already mentioned that the Israeli word for 'wow' is actually 'eyooo'. Also, girls say to each other "achoti" which means "my sister" and boys say to each other "achi" which means "my brother". Everyone also calls each other "mammi" or "coosh-coosh". Also, everyone in Israel says "oh my God". The translation in Hebrew would be "Elohim" but I hardly hear anyone saying that - they just say it in English. Also - this is weird, when Americans would usually scream "YES!" when something good happens, the Israelis scream "YESH!". 'Yesh' in Hebrew means 'there is', so it doesn't really make sense, along with most of the slang.
14. Friday night dinners. My family and I used to have Friday night dinners with each other every week in America, but when I got into high school sometimes I'd go out with friends. Either way, my family and I usually do the Israeli thing of having dinner together on Friday nights and lighting the Shabbat candles, blessing the wine and bread. I have now learned that in Judaism you're technically supposed to have two kinds of meat and two kinds of starch on Friday night dinners (my family sticks to chicken and potatoes), and so what ends up happening is that you roll out of your chair in the end, having stuffed yourself on rice, potatoes, chicken, meat balls, two different kinds of salads, couscous, and bread. HEALTH!
15. The way that the entire country (at least the Jewish portion of it) is quiet on Saturdays. I woke up on a Saturday in my Uncles' apartment in Tel Aviv last week and all I could hear were children playing and people laughing - no cars, no buses, no construction workers. It's lovely. It's the same kind of quiet that happens around 5:00 in the afternoon (right about when I'm writing this). Before kids go out to meet their friends at night and before parents get home from work, the streets are relatively empty and everyone who's not working is resting.
Wednesday, April 13, 2011
Youth Groups and Camera Parties
Even though I usually tend to update my blog every Sunday, Tuesday, and Thursday, I figured I'd do a Wednesday blog because Thursday through Sunday is about to be very lazy and sun-filled and not particularly internshipy. Today, however, was VERY internshipy.
Today was an enormous youth group gathering for Sadaka Reut. Youth groups from all over the country (and I mean ALL OVER the country - more on that later) met in Salon Yafo, which is an art gallery of Palestinian art in Yafo. There were two workshops, lunch, and then a sort of Yafo-tour treasure hunt.
The first thing I noticed about the groups together was that many different kinds of Israelis and Palestinians were represented. There were lots of secular and semi-religious Palestinians as well as Ethiopian Jews, Russian Jews, and Ashkenazi Jews in the mix. The second thing I noticed is that while the Israelis and Palestinians didn't directly mix and congeal with each other, the atmosphere in the air was very amicable, and communication was going around both in Hebrew between Israelis and Palestinians and wordlessly when language gaps occurred.
Another thing that struck me (with which I am continuously struck) was how completey useless it is to assume that all Palestinians are darker than Israelis. It's this stupid misconception that Palestinians are Arabs, therefor they are more Middle Eastern looking than Israelis. This is ridiculous, because only sixty odd years ago, Jews from Iraq and Iran and Morocco and Egypt were flooding towards Israel, and while they were Jewish, THEY WERE ARAB. Many times I saw Palestinian students that were as white as me and Israelis that were much darker.
The youth groups were hurried into the Salon Yafo (pictued above) and then split in half arbitrarily. One group went to build wire sculptures (also pictured above) and one went to help Sadaka-Reut design this year's t-shirt. The sculpture group was led by one of the workers at Salon Yafo, and the t-shirt group was led by Natali, Sadaka's youth group coordinator, and Samer, one of the Commune Kids.
Watching the groups was a real treat. I spent most of the day with Diran, one of the Sadaka volunteers who half helps out with Commune Kids and half helps with other things, but I got to see all of the Commune Kids in action. Every one of them has a very different style of leadership, which is what their program is focusing on developing (the official title is not Commune Kids as I call them but the Leadership Development Program). Mahmoud is one hell of a problem solver. Some of the kids from Natanya were being finnicky, and he very calmly walked up to them and said "How about this" and shuttled them off to a solution. It's not a "I suggest that you" kind of thing, it's a "Let's do it because I know what I'm doing and you know you're being unreasonable" kind of situation.
Ro'ee doesn't say much, and his style of leadership is very different - he's in the background, quietly helping with questions and cleaning up the workshops - helping moving things and setting up. You don't really notice he's there until he asks you politely to move so he can bring the t-shirt design group their brushes and smiles warmly at everyone. Yotam is also less in the spotlight, but he's kind of like the Mama Bear. He makes sure every student is feeling well.
Samer is something else entirely. He has this freaking gift - he instantly makes everyone in the room feel ridiculously comfortable, no matter what language you speak, or if he even speaks your language. He is one of those people that makes you feel very included even if it's just by grinning at you or winking or saying something to you in a language you shouldn't understand but somehow do when he's talking to you.
After the workshops were over, the entire group walked from Salon Yafo to a sizeable green park type area near the gallery. The park was right on the edge of the ocean, and waves were crashing around rocks by the path. It was the most picturesque spot to eat lunch (your choice of Shnitzel sandwich, shwarma, or falafel), and not to sound too corny or anything, but the sea breeze whipping at your hair is really, REALLY heeling.
After lunch was over, the group split into five small clusters, each one led by either Samer, Mahmoud, Yotam, Ro'ee, or Diran. These five groups were going on a scavenger hunt of Yafo, which consisted of a walk of about a mile radius. I went with Diran's group. Their clues/missions were things like "find the Physicians for Human Rights Office" or "91.8" or "ask around to people where their favorite place in Yafo is". (I think 91.8 is the right number - it's supposed to be a big radio station in Israel that has its' office in Yafo, which is something new that I learned, among many things from today.)
I really liked the idea of a scavenger hunt that spanned around a city. We should do that, Graham. The students seemed to have a lot of fun with it too. It was technically supposed to be a race for which group finished their hunt first, but I think by the end of the day everyone was far too tired to go running around.
After the scavenger hunt was completed, everyone met back at that same green park by the sea, where closing remarks were said and popcicles were handed out. Now Diran and I had the second part of our day to complete. Diran had asked me (/begged me) to come along with her to the North. She was responsible for being the chaperone on the bus that dropped off the Palestinians in different Arab villages in the North. The farthest they were going, she said, was Mousmous, which was about an hour away from Yafo. I thought, hey, whatever, I'm not doing anything. When I told Yotam, Ro'ee, Mahmoud, and Samer that I was going with Diran, they all started laughing at me. Yotam said if I didn't text him next Monday night as per usual about Sadaka's work week, he'd know I was left stranded in Mousmous. "Great," I said. "It'll only be a good five days after, you can really start searching for me." Apparently Mousmous was a bit out of the way.
I think I'm becoming accustomed to Israeli perception, because I did feel like the bus ride was extraordinarily long. I mean, it was long, but only because we had so many stops (Netanya, Tire, a lot of other Arabic names I can't hope to remember). Also, we hit the obligatory traffic jam outside Tel Aviv. It was made worse by the fact that the bus driver was blasting both Arab and Mizrachi techno dance music (best?) and the students were having a dance party at the back of the bus (what a culture jolt). Between that and the nausea-inducing driving patterns of ALL BUS DRIVERS IN THIS GOD FORSAKEN COUNTRY, by the time it was just me, Diran, and four boys heading towards Mousmous, our last stop, I was exhausted.
Mousmous is one of many villages in what Diran called "Wadi Arab'iah". It technically means "Arabic Ravine". It's basically a line of Arab villages, way, way, way north of Tel Aviv. It took us forty minutes to get from Tire to Mousmous, which gives you an idea of why the Commune Kids were laughing uproariously at my plight.
Instead of going to Mousmous, the driver dropped me and Diran in Em Il Fahem, a neighboring town to Mousmous. By that time it was already twenty til eight (we left Tel Aviv at five). Diran and I sat in a cafe and had cappucinos and enormous Belgian Waffle monstrosities (picture two belgian waffles barried under syrup, chocolate drizzle, chopped apples, whipped cream, and ice cream. OBESITY). I can't particularly remember (it's 12:43 in the morning right now) everything that we talked about, but one of the things that has struck out to me is when Diran started talking about how Israelis talk to her when they find out she is Palestinian. They say, "Wait...but you're so light skinned!" And she says, "Um." Then they say, "But you're Christian, right?" (She's not.) And she says, "Well, since you've got me all figured out, I'll be leaving. Obviously you don't need me for this conversation." She followed that with, "Look, I can't change people's opinions and neither can they change mine, so we might as well get used to the fact that we're both here and respect each other already."
Diran's really cool and interesting - she grew up in Rehovot, which is an Israeli town with next to no Palestinian population. She told me she had HUGE problems in high school when she was in history classes and she kept calling the Israeli curriculum out on its' propoganda and lies. She told me some of her best friends are Israelis and serving in the army, and she doesn't like it, no, but that's the way it is. She speaks perfect Hebrew and perfect Arabic and near-perfect English. Making me look bad.
Diran and I caught an express bus from Em Il Fahem to Tel Aviv. By the time I got off the bus in Tel Aviv, it was 10:30 at night. I then succesfully took a cab home (I convinced the driver in Hebrew that I was Spanish, my name was Clara, and no-I-did-not-have-any-Russian-heritge [this is a lie, as is the rest], and I'm here to work and travel. I was pretty much just happy with the fact that I was able to convince him of all this in Hebrew without him suspecting otherwise. In fact, I threw in a bit of me teaching him some of the curse words I know in Spanish. Don't feel bad for him, all cab drivers in Tel Aviv are Major Creeps).
It occured to me as Diran and I were taking the bus back to Tel Aviv that I really like what I'm doing, who I am, and who I'm with. Diran is promising to organize a Commune Kids trip to Nazareth, where her family has a house on the Ravine. She says it'll be a just Commune Kids (plus her and me) trip. I'm extremely pumped - I'd love to go to Nazareth and I really like spending time with the Commune Kids - everyone is so, so nice and so, so interesting. It also occured to me how strangely life brings you full circle - my parents both had these realizations and experiences when they were working in Arab-Jewish relations here in Israel a BILLION years ago (you're welcome) when they were young and restless too.
How strange.
Today was an enormous youth group gathering for Sadaka Reut. Youth groups from all over the country (and I mean ALL OVER the country - more on that later) met in Salon Yafo, which is an art gallery of Palestinian art in Yafo. There were two workshops, lunch, and then a sort of Yafo-tour treasure hunt.
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| The gathering of the youth groups... |
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| A Palestinian student struggles with the wire for his sculpture... |
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| More wire sculpture fun |
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| Samer and Natali. I couldn't get a picture of them without Natali moving, so I stopped trying. |
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| Students drew blueprints for their t-shirt designs before painting the designs on cut up pieces of fabric. |
Ro'ee doesn't say much, and his style of leadership is very different - he's in the background, quietly helping with questions and cleaning up the workshops - helping moving things and setting up. You don't really notice he's there until he asks you politely to move so he can bring the t-shirt design group their brushes and smiles warmly at everyone. Yotam is also less in the spotlight, but he's kind of like the Mama Bear. He makes sure every student is feeling well.
Samer is something else entirely. He has this freaking gift - he instantly makes everyone in the room feel ridiculously comfortable, no matter what language you speak, or if he even speaks your language. He is one of those people that makes you feel very included even if it's just by grinning at you or winking or saying something to you in a language you shouldn't understand but somehow do when he's talking to you.
 | |
| Diran wouldn't be happy with me if she knew I was putting up this picture, but this is lunch on a HILL by the SEA! |
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| Old Yafo in the distance... |
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| OCEAN. |
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| They found it. |
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| Diran looks like a proud, frizzy lion (she's the one facing the camera with lots of papers in her hands). |
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| Beautiful Yafo. |
I think I'm becoming accustomed to Israeli perception, because I did feel like the bus ride was extraordinarily long. I mean, it was long, but only because we had so many stops (Netanya, Tire, a lot of other Arabic names I can't hope to remember). Also, we hit the obligatory traffic jam outside Tel Aviv. It was made worse by the fact that the bus driver was blasting both Arab and Mizrachi techno dance music (best?) and the students were having a dance party at the back of the bus (what a culture jolt). Between that and the nausea-inducing driving patterns of ALL BUS DRIVERS IN THIS GOD FORSAKEN COUNTRY, by the time it was just me, Diran, and four boys heading towards Mousmous, our last stop, I was exhausted.
Mousmous is one of many villages in what Diran called "Wadi Arab'iah". It technically means "Arabic Ravine". It's basically a line of Arab villages, way, way, way north of Tel Aviv. It took us forty minutes to get from Tire to Mousmous, which gives you an idea of why the Commune Kids were laughing uproariously at my plight.
Instead of going to Mousmous, the driver dropped me and Diran in Em Il Fahem, a neighboring town to Mousmous. By that time it was already twenty til eight (we left Tel Aviv at five). Diran and I sat in a cafe and had cappucinos and enormous Belgian Waffle monstrosities (picture two belgian waffles barried under syrup, chocolate drizzle, chopped apples, whipped cream, and ice cream. OBESITY). I can't particularly remember (it's 12:43 in the morning right now) everything that we talked about, but one of the things that has struck out to me is when Diran started talking about how Israelis talk to her when they find out she is Palestinian. They say, "Wait...but you're so light skinned!" And she says, "Um." Then they say, "But you're Christian, right?" (She's not.) And she says, "Well, since you've got me all figured out, I'll be leaving. Obviously you don't need me for this conversation." She followed that with, "Look, I can't change people's opinions and neither can they change mine, so we might as well get used to the fact that we're both here and respect each other already."
Diran's really cool and interesting - she grew up in Rehovot, which is an Israeli town with next to no Palestinian population. She told me she had HUGE problems in high school when she was in history classes and she kept calling the Israeli curriculum out on its' propoganda and lies. She told me some of her best friends are Israelis and serving in the army, and she doesn't like it, no, but that's the way it is. She speaks perfect Hebrew and perfect Arabic and near-perfect English. Making me look bad.
Diran and I caught an express bus from Em Il Fahem to Tel Aviv. By the time I got off the bus in Tel Aviv, it was 10:30 at night. I then succesfully took a cab home (I convinced the driver in Hebrew that I was Spanish, my name was Clara, and no-I-did-not-have-any-Russian-heritge [this is a lie, as is the rest], and I'm here to work and travel. I was pretty much just happy with the fact that I was able to convince him of all this in Hebrew without him suspecting otherwise. In fact, I threw in a bit of me teaching him some of the curse words I know in Spanish. Don't feel bad for him, all cab drivers in Tel Aviv are Major Creeps).
It occured to me as Diran and I were taking the bus back to Tel Aviv that I really like what I'm doing, who I am, and who I'm with. Diran is promising to organize a Commune Kids trip to Nazareth, where her family has a house on the Ravine. She says it'll be a just Commune Kids (plus her and me) trip. I'm extremely pumped - I'd love to go to Nazareth and I really like spending time with the Commune Kids - everyone is so, so nice and so, so interesting. It also occured to me how strangely life brings you full circle - my parents both had these realizations and experiences when they were working in Arab-Jewish relations here in Israel a BILLION years ago (you're welcome) when they were young and restless too.
How strange.
Tuesday, April 12, 2011
Plans
Wednesday 13 - Sunday 17: Kfar Saba
Monday 18 - Wednesday 20: Ashqelon
Thursday 21 - Friday 22: Jerusalem
Sunday 24: Jerusalem checkpoints?
Monday 25 - Tuesday 26: Pardes Hana
Thursday 28 - Saturday 30: Moda'in
Saturday 30 - Monday 2: Kfar Saba
Friday 6: Home
There it is. My plan for the next three and a half weeks. It's frightening. Very frightening. Suddenly I have very little time to do the nothing that I was so enjoying. Remember how I needed to learn to do nothing? Well, I've learned. Quite well, in fact.
Tomorrow I will be working at Sadaka-Reut. They're having a HUGE gathering of all of their youth groups - Israeli and Palestinian alike. THIS is what I am here for, this is what I am excited about. From there I am taking the train to Kfar Saba and spending my vacation with my friends (I have been promised a trip to the beach, which isn't particularly new - I was at the beach yesterday - but this will be different because it will be with friends). I'll be back in Tel Aviv on Sunday night, but early the next morning I am taking a SHIRUT! to Ashqelon. I would take the train, but my adopted grandmother person that I am seeing said she doesn't think trains are running there anymore because of some unfortunate missile situations that may or may not still be happening when I get there (shh, everything's fine). So if I don't get to take the train, I can take a SHIRUT, which I am very excited about (hence the capital letters), as I have never taken one before. SHIRUTs are basically just group taxis. WOOO!
Anyway, Ashqelon is going to be lots of food for Passover. I'm very excited. This is the adopted grandmother person who is very happy with me if I just eat her food and watch TV. I'm happy to comply. After Ashqelon I'm coming back to Tel Aviv for a night, and then taking the bus to Jerusalem. Here is where I'll be doing less nothing. I'm staying with my Famous Uncle Last of the Mohicans Guy and interviewing him. I'll stay with him for a night. That Sunday there is a possibility I will be visiting a bunch of checkpoints around Jerusalem with this organization that goes and keeps track of what goes on there. It's an organization of only women, as it is apparently easier for only women to go because of the stereotype that they're there as nurturing 'oh please don't hurt anyone' rather than there to collect information about a political situation.
My days in Pardes Hana will be spent finishing up the last of the banking stuff I needed to take care of as well as seeing everyone in my hometown one last time before I go. After that is my last weekend in Israel, which I will spend with the Kagans in Moda'in again, and then from there I'll work in Kfar Saba one last time at the school teaching English. After that...I'm...leaving...
HOW WEIRD IS THIS?? I can't even handle it. I have SO LITTLE TIME LEFT. HOW DID THIS HAPPEN? I AM BOTH ANXIOUS TO LEAVE AND ANXIOUS TO STAY, WHAT ARE THESE CONTRADICTIONS WITHIN ME?
Monday 18 - Wednesday 20: Ashqelon
Thursday 21 - Friday 22: Jerusalem
Sunday 24: Jerusalem checkpoints?
Monday 25 - Tuesday 26: Pardes Hana
Thursday 28 - Saturday 30: Moda'in
Saturday 30 - Monday 2: Kfar Saba
Friday 6: Home
There it is. My plan for the next three and a half weeks. It's frightening. Very frightening. Suddenly I have very little time to do the nothing that I was so enjoying. Remember how I needed to learn to do nothing? Well, I've learned. Quite well, in fact.
Tomorrow I will be working at Sadaka-Reut. They're having a HUGE gathering of all of their youth groups - Israeli and Palestinian alike. THIS is what I am here for, this is what I am excited about. From there I am taking the train to Kfar Saba and spending my vacation with my friends (I have been promised a trip to the beach, which isn't particularly new - I was at the beach yesterday - but this will be different because it will be with friends). I'll be back in Tel Aviv on Sunday night, but early the next morning I am taking a SHIRUT! to Ashqelon. I would take the train, but my adopted grandmother person that I am seeing said she doesn't think trains are running there anymore because of some unfortunate missile situations that may or may not still be happening when I get there (shh, everything's fine). So if I don't get to take the train, I can take a SHIRUT, which I am very excited about (hence the capital letters), as I have never taken one before. SHIRUTs are basically just group taxis. WOOO!
Anyway, Ashqelon is going to be lots of food for Passover. I'm very excited. This is the adopted grandmother person who is very happy with me if I just eat her food and watch TV. I'm happy to comply. After Ashqelon I'm coming back to Tel Aviv for a night, and then taking the bus to Jerusalem. Here is where I'll be doing less nothing. I'm staying with my Famous Uncle Last of the Mohicans Guy and interviewing him. I'll stay with him for a night. That Sunday there is a possibility I will be visiting a bunch of checkpoints around Jerusalem with this organization that goes and keeps track of what goes on there. It's an organization of only women, as it is apparently easier for only women to go because of the stereotype that they're there as nurturing 'oh please don't hurt anyone' rather than there to collect information about a political situation.
My days in Pardes Hana will be spent finishing up the last of the banking stuff I needed to take care of as well as seeing everyone in my hometown one last time before I go. After that is my last weekend in Israel, which I will spend with the Kagans in Moda'in again, and then from there I'll work in Kfar Saba one last time at the school teaching English. After that...I'm...leaving...
HOW WEIRD IS THIS?? I can't even handle it. I have SO LITTLE TIME LEFT. HOW DID THIS HAPPEN? I AM BOTH ANXIOUS TO LEAVE AND ANXIOUS TO STAY, WHAT ARE THESE CONTRADICTIONS WITHIN ME?
Sunday, April 10, 2011
Spring Break
This weekend was my first weekend I spent with my Uncles since I have been here, and I anticipate it being one of the last. So, me and my Uncles spent a delightful Saturday around Tel Aviv. First was the obligatory walk on the beach which led to the Tel Aviv pier, a hopping place full of some really cool shops and restaurants. We had fish and chips in a place that boasted of being "fast food gourmet", which I found funny. From there we went to go see a movie in Azrieli center, a giant and very famous mall in Tel Aviv. The movie we saw was called In a Better World - it's Danish (Hebrew and English subtitles) and was really heavy, but really good.
By the Tel Aviv pier there's an enormous electrical plant, so while you're on the beach, there's a good chance that if your head is turned in the direction of Tel Aviv, you're going to see a giant, ugly, disgusting plant that has to be by the water so it can cool down the generators. If your head is turned to the other side, however, towards the North, you can see nothing but the gorgeous beach and the gorgeous shore and gorgeous towns beyond it.
It occured to me that much of everywhere we live in in this world has views like these. At first I attributed it to Israel alone: that it was a One-Way kind of country, that there was a gorgeous view on one side but annoying reality on the other. Then I figured it wasn't fair to limit this to just Israel alone - it's the same everywhere. Whetstone Park is gorgeous, but no matter where you are, you can hear the highway just beyond it.
I feel like I should be sad after realizing this, but I'm not. Every place has its' good and its' bad and the trick is to find a balance between the two when you're living there. The same goes for political situations. I don't know if I've mentioned this yet, but one of the things I keep coming back to is something that my dad's friend Roni said. He said "People are people and they change their minds all the time." It's a very contemplative statement to make, but it fits pretty much every situation.
This is a pretty short journal entry. The country is getting ready to go on Spring Break. Next week is Passover. It's almost quieter here in the city, even though I know that in reality it's probably not, but the feeling is in the air, the feeling of pretty soon everyone will be with family and friend's celebrating.
I've spent the entire day lounging around the apartment, making food, eating food, doing laundry, writing (I've finished a project I was working on - very exciting). I spoke to my brother today for the first time in about three weeks, which is awesome. All in all, this weekend was a really good, quiet weekend for me, as I had been running around for the past three weeks doing work all over the place.
I am definitely having an amazing experience here, but I can't wait until I see everyone at home. I realize that most of the month of May is going to be me finishing up the newsletter for Sadaka-Reut from Columbus, so at least I'll have something to do. Everyone's wrapping up their walkabouts, and with their Walkabouts their high school lives, which is both exciting and incredibly depressing. I have the unforeseen challenge of going to college with not one but TWO of my best friends (check back with me this time next year to see how I feel about that), but for right now, I'm excited to see all of my friends and my family again, and to focus on SENIOR RETREAT PART TWO (it's happening, right??????), PROM (woooo!), and GRADUATION! (I can say that word now!!!)
By the Tel Aviv pier there's an enormous electrical plant, so while you're on the beach, there's a good chance that if your head is turned in the direction of Tel Aviv, you're going to see a giant, ugly, disgusting plant that has to be by the water so it can cool down the generators. If your head is turned to the other side, however, towards the North, you can see nothing but the gorgeous beach and the gorgeous shore and gorgeous towns beyond it.
It occured to me that much of everywhere we live in in this world has views like these. At first I attributed it to Israel alone: that it was a One-Way kind of country, that there was a gorgeous view on one side but annoying reality on the other. Then I figured it wasn't fair to limit this to just Israel alone - it's the same everywhere. Whetstone Park is gorgeous, but no matter where you are, you can hear the highway just beyond it.
I feel like I should be sad after realizing this, but I'm not. Every place has its' good and its' bad and the trick is to find a balance between the two when you're living there. The same goes for political situations. I don't know if I've mentioned this yet, but one of the things I keep coming back to is something that my dad's friend Roni said. He said "People are people and they change their minds all the time." It's a very contemplative statement to make, but it fits pretty much every situation.
This is a pretty short journal entry. The country is getting ready to go on Spring Break. Next week is Passover. It's almost quieter here in the city, even though I know that in reality it's probably not, but the feeling is in the air, the feeling of pretty soon everyone will be with family and friend's celebrating.
I've spent the entire day lounging around the apartment, making food, eating food, doing laundry, writing (I've finished a project I was working on - very exciting). I spoke to my brother today for the first time in about three weeks, which is awesome. All in all, this weekend was a really good, quiet weekend for me, as I had been running around for the past three weeks doing work all over the place.
I am definitely having an amazing experience here, but I can't wait until I see everyone at home. I realize that most of the month of May is going to be me finishing up the newsletter for Sadaka-Reut from Columbus, so at least I'll have something to do. Everyone's wrapping up their walkabouts, and with their Walkabouts their high school lives, which is both exciting and incredibly depressing. I have the unforeseen challenge of going to college with not one but TWO of my best friends (check back with me this time next year to see how I feel about that), but for right now, I'm excited to see all of my friends and my family again, and to focus on SENIOR RETREAT PART TWO (it's happening, right??????), PROM (woooo!), and GRADUATION! (I can say that word now!!!)
Thursday, April 7, 2011
More Good Chats
Let me describe the scene: I'm hot, I'm sweaty, my nose is stuffed because of seasonal allergies, but I'm in a very good mood. I'm sitting in the offices of Sadaka-Reut on an available computer, and beyond the computer room is the sound of twenty-seven happy and excitable ninth graders all hammering away in Arabic. The facilitators, Hassan, Rani, and Mariam, are trying to gather the students enough so that they'll sit in one of the main rooms of Sadaka's office and have a discussion over what they have done / how they feel of what they have done so far. This is the last youth group meeting before Passover break, which lasts for three weeks.
Yesterday I interviewed Hana, which is my Second Official Interview. With Hana, I realized that I my questions were limited - that I had better interviews if I asked one really general question and just let the subject talk. I asked Hana if she could explain to me the Palestinian narrative beginning in 1948. She did, gladly, and we had a really good interview.
One of the most fascinating things that she said which I think is very true and very important is what she referred to as "the Biggest Armed Robbery in Human History". During the war of 1948 when Palestinians fled or were kicked out of their homes, after Israel was declared an independent state, Israel closed its' borders and declared that anything the Palestinians had left behind was now Israel's rightful property. That meant that all the houses, cars, gardens, streets, facilities - everything now belonged to Israel. This is how Israel gained so many assets so quickly. For such a young country, it became very powerful very fast. When Israel's government brought over Jews from foreign countries, there are stories of how the Jews came into this housing that the government had for them and saw a table laid out for dinner. To the Jews, it was like a welcoming to their homeland. To the Palestinians, it was the table laid for the dinner they never got to have.
After Hana's interview, I took the train to Pardes Hana, where I attended Miriam's son's birthday party (he's turning five and very smug about it). I got to the party just as people were leaving, and while Inbar, Miriam's son, was in the bath, Miriam and I lounged on their porch and talked about what we hated about people and the world (it seems to be our favorite subject). I started talking about racism (it's going to be my next article for Sadaka-Reut), and then we talked about the difference in racism here and in the States. Miriam said something I also think is very true. She said, "The only difference between Israel and the States is that Israel is upfront and honest about its' racism. It's not hidden under the surface. The PC wave never hit us like it did the U.S. Racism still exists in the States, people just push it under the rug."
I thought about that when I went back to my mom's friend house. The PC wave has certainly made it taboo to be upfront about racism but it has in no way obliterated the problem entirely. In some ways, I think underhanded racism is almost more dangerous than the perfectly obvious and blatant bigoted statements you hear here. And maybe it's not so much that there's more racism in Israel than there is in the U.S., but that people talk about it more. There's more of an open dialogue. Besides my PoliRad class, I'd never really been in a constructive environment where racism was discussed and studied. I think it's different in Graham, where we are a very open community, and even though we're not THE MOST diverse population, we still have many people from many backgrounds and there's a huge zero tolerance to discrimination. In bigger schools, though, with bigger populations of so called 'minorities', I think there's more hushed up racism. I don't know, maybe I'm wrong, but as usual, I think I'm right. You know me. I'm always right. ALWAYS.
The students have gone (I took a break from writing this blog post to take pictures of them, but it didn't really work, because I got caught in a BARBED WIRE TREE [also known as a bush with no leaves and ALL THE PRICKLES as in WHY IS IT INSIDE?] and caused the entire group to watch me try to untangle myself which may or may not have derailed the group discussion just a tad, so as soon as I was free I took a few quick pictures before running red-cheeked back to my computer), and it's almost time for me to go. This weekend I'm not going anywhere, I'm just staying put in Ramat Gan, which will be nice that I'm not running around. On Monday night me and my uncles are going to see West Side Story (IN HEBREW!) at a theater school near their house. I'll spend the week doing more Sadaka-Reut stuff, and then comes practically two weeks of break for Passover. I'm not entirely sure of my plans, but the majority of my Israeli interviews will take place over break when I'm with friends and family. I should be spending a couple days in Jerusalem in order to interview my Uncle Ruvein, the famous activist/Marxist/Last of the Mohicans Kind of Guy and to visit more people. After break's over, I have basically a week left before I leave back for home. Four more weeks sounds both really long and really short, especially when I break it down. One work, two nothings, another work...it's hard to believe that I have already been here for six weeks. This is now officially the longest time I have been away from home (Germany was five weeks). I miss everyone, but my time is being used for some really cool stuff, and I'm grateful that I have this opportunity to surround myself by fascinating people and learn about a subject in which I was otherwise not very well versed.
Yesterday I interviewed Hana, which is my Second Official Interview. With Hana, I realized that I my questions were limited - that I had better interviews if I asked one really general question and just let the subject talk. I asked Hana if she could explain to me the Palestinian narrative beginning in 1948. She did, gladly, and we had a really good interview.
One of the most fascinating things that she said which I think is very true and very important is what she referred to as "the Biggest Armed Robbery in Human History". During the war of 1948 when Palestinians fled or were kicked out of their homes, after Israel was declared an independent state, Israel closed its' borders and declared that anything the Palestinians had left behind was now Israel's rightful property. That meant that all the houses, cars, gardens, streets, facilities - everything now belonged to Israel. This is how Israel gained so many assets so quickly. For such a young country, it became very powerful very fast. When Israel's government brought over Jews from foreign countries, there are stories of how the Jews came into this housing that the government had for them and saw a table laid out for dinner. To the Jews, it was like a welcoming to their homeland. To the Palestinians, it was the table laid for the dinner they never got to have.
After Hana's interview, I took the train to Pardes Hana, where I attended Miriam's son's birthday party (he's turning five and very smug about it). I got to the party just as people were leaving, and while Inbar, Miriam's son, was in the bath, Miriam and I lounged on their porch and talked about what we hated about people and the world (it seems to be our favorite subject). I started talking about racism (it's going to be my next article for Sadaka-Reut), and then we talked about the difference in racism here and in the States. Miriam said something I also think is very true. She said, "The only difference between Israel and the States is that Israel is upfront and honest about its' racism. It's not hidden under the surface. The PC wave never hit us like it did the U.S. Racism still exists in the States, people just push it under the rug."
I thought about that when I went back to my mom's friend house. The PC wave has certainly made it taboo to be upfront about racism but it has in no way obliterated the problem entirely. In some ways, I think underhanded racism is almost more dangerous than the perfectly obvious and blatant bigoted statements you hear here. And maybe it's not so much that there's more racism in Israel than there is in the U.S., but that people talk about it more. There's more of an open dialogue. Besides my PoliRad class, I'd never really been in a constructive environment where racism was discussed and studied. I think it's different in Graham, where we are a very open community, and even though we're not THE MOST diverse population, we still have many people from many backgrounds and there's a huge zero tolerance to discrimination. In bigger schools, though, with bigger populations of so called 'minorities', I think there's more hushed up racism. I don't know, maybe I'm wrong, but as usual, I think I'm right. You know me. I'm always right. ALWAYS.
The students have gone (I took a break from writing this blog post to take pictures of them, but it didn't really work, because I got caught in a BARBED WIRE TREE [also known as a bush with no leaves and ALL THE PRICKLES as in WHY IS IT INSIDE?] and caused the entire group to watch me try to untangle myself which may or may not have derailed the group discussion just a tad, so as soon as I was free I took a few quick pictures before running red-cheeked back to my computer), and it's almost time for me to go. This weekend I'm not going anywhere, I'm just staying put in Ramat Gan, which will be nice that I'm not running around. On Monday night me and my uncles are going to see West Side Story (IN HEBREW!) at a theater school near their house. I'll spend the week doing more Sadaka-Reut stuff, and then comes practically two weeks of break for Passover. I'm not entirely sure of my plans, but the majority of my Israeli interviews will take place over break when I'm with friends and family. I should be spending a couple days in Jerusalem in order to interview my Uncle Ruvein, the famous activist/Marxist/Last of the Mohicans Kind of Guy and to visit more people. After break's over, I have basically a week left before I leave back for home. Four more weeks sounds both really long and really short, especially when I break it down. One work, two nothings, another work...it's hard to believe that I have already been here for six weeks. This is now officially the longest time I have been away from home (Germany was five weeks). I miss everyone, but my time is being used for some really cool stuff, and I'm grateful that I have this opportunity to surround myself by fascinating people and learn about a subject in which I was otherwise not very well versed.
Tuesday, April 5, 2011
Idiosyncrasies of a Contradictory Country
Because my week is looking like it will be pretty slow (I'm waiting for Hana to get out of a meeting so I can show her the edited version of my first article), I decided to dedicate this blog post to some of the little things I have noticed thus far in my trip (most of them will have to do with traveling). These little things make up a country, not the politics.
1) No matter what time of day or in which direction you travel in, the number 40 bus always hits stop-and-go traffic on Yafo Street that causes the bus to be delayed a good fifteen minutes.
2) As Stephan mentioned in his blog, Nescafe is strangely addicting. (Two spoons of Nescafe, two spoons of sugar, pour in hot water, pour in milk, stir, and enjoy.)
3) There are too many people in Tel Aviv, and they all suffer from the Israeli Traveler Syndrome: Extreme annoyance at anyone going at a slower pace than themselves, and extreme defensiveness when someone tries to get past them.
4) Israeli bus drivers will start driving even while people are still paying for their tickets. Don't worry. They totally don't care about how you're going to sit down as they careen across sidewalks, making it impossible to move without dying.
5) The trains are never late in Israel, down to the second.
6) "Cold" is about 55 degrees in Israel.
7) While Katy Perry was popular when I was in Germany, Eminem is popular here.
8) Instead of saying "wow" or "hey!" when people see each other, Israeli youths will say "eeeyoooo!"
9) Israelis sometimes say "what's up" in Hebrew with an American accent. ("Ma Koreh" as pronounced by an American. For the longest time I thought my uncle was making fun of me when he said it like that, but then I heard other Israelis saying it to each other.)
10) If someone's headlights are off, a car next to them will inform them. That same car will then cut them off if they are so inclined.
11) Do not trust the English transliterations of how Israeli towns are pronounced. כפר סבה is definitely not pronounced "Kefar Sava". It's prenounced "Kfar Saba".
12) In that same respect, the English transliterations of Arab towns are probably not correct either.
13) The first thing you learn in the army is how to get by without sleeping. Don't worry. You won't need rest as long as you have...NESCAFE!
14) When you see a falafel stand swarmed with people buying for the lunch rush, it's probably wiser to eat then than a half hour later when it's empty. In the lunch rush, the food is fresh.
15) That being said, buying left over borekas (puff pastries with potatoes, cheese, and spinach = amazing) at the end of the day is still just as good.
16) You THINK you can spot a Palestinian or Arab. But you can't, at all, unless you hear them speak Arabic, and possibly not even then.
17) I've only seen one woman wearing a Burqa, and that was in Yafo, not in an all-Arab village (there I didn't even see anyone wearing a hijab).
18) You know what's big here, and you won't believe it? ACID WASHED JEANS. Typical Tel Avivian young woman's outfit: high wasted acid wash jeans (in all colors), a shapeless, silky top, and flats. Also in: acid wash shorts and acid wash denim skirts. ???? THE 80s ARE BACK?
19) The new thing for teenage boys in lower-class economic situations is to bleach their hair and dye it pink and blue.
20) People do not answer the phone in Israel with "Shalom?" They answer " 'alo?" Sometimes without the question mark, just a brisk " 'alo."
21) For Israeli families living in apartments, the elevator is often very small, because only about six families live in apartment buildings together.
22) You want shawarma? Be ready to be really thirsty.
23) You know what Israel doesn't have a lot of? Greek restaurants. On the other hand, you know what they do have a lot of? Bulgarian restaurants.
24) A purse bought at the New Central Bus Station for 30 shekels (about $9) can be found in a boutique in down town Tel Aviv for about 100 shekels (about $30). Or more. Moral of the story: go shopping for accessories in the New Central Bus Station.
25) Walking down the main street in Kfar Saba in the morning, you will most likely encounted many old Israeli men and women accompanied by their Phillipino caretakers.
There are 25 random facts about the little things about this country that have struck me thus far. Now, if you will excuse me, I'm going to go buy some left over borekas for my late lunch at the Makolet (market) down the street from the Sadaka-Reut offices.
1) No matter what time of day or in which direction you travel in, the number 40 bus always hits stop-and-go traffic on Yafo Street that causes the bus to be delayed a good fifteen minutes.
2) As Stephan mentioned in his blog, Nescafe is strangely addicting. (Two spoons of Nescafe, two spoons of sugar, pour in hot water, pour in milk, stir, and enjoy.)
3) There are too many people in Tel Aviv, and they all suffer from the Israeli Traveler Syndrome: Extreme annoyance at anyone going at a slower pace than themselves, and extreme defensiveness when someone tries to get past them.
4) Israeli bus drivers will start driving even while people are still paying for their tickets. Don't worry. They totally don't care about how you're going to sit down as they careen across sidewalks, making it impossible to move without dying.
5) The trains are never late in Israel, down to the second.
6) "Cold" is about 55 degrees in Israel.
7) While Katy Perry was popular when I was in Germany, Eminem is popular here.
8) Instead of saying "wow" or "hey!" when people see each other, Israeli youths will say "eeeyoooo!"
9) Israelis sometimes say "what's up" in Hebrew with an American accent. ("Ma Koreh" as pronounced by an American. For the longest time I thought my uncle was making fun of me when he said it like that, but then I heard other Israelis saying it to each other.)
10) If someone's headlights are off, a car next to them will inform them. That same car will then cut them off if they are so inclined.
11) Do not trust the English transliterations of how Israeli towns are pronounced. כפר סבה is definitely not pronounced "Kefar Sava". It's prenounced "Kfar Saba".
12) In that same respect, the English transliterations of Arab towns are probably not correct either.
13) The first thing you learn in the army is how to get by without sleeping. Don't worry. You won't need rest as long as you have...NESCAFE!
14) When you see a falafel stand swarmed with people buying for the lunch rush, it's probably wiser to eat then than a half hour later when it's empty. In the lunch rush, the food is fresh.
15) That being said, buying left over borekas (puff pastries with potatoes, cheese, and spinach = amazing) at the end of the day is still just as good.
16) You THINK you can spot a Palestinian or Arab. But you can't, at all, unless you hear them speak Arabic, and possibly not even then.
17) I've only seen one woman wearing a Burqa, and that was in Yafo, not in an all-Arab village (there I didn't even see anyone wearing a hijab).
18) You know what's big here, and you won't believe it? ACID WASHED JEANS. Typical Tel Avivian young woman's outfit: high wasted acid wash jeans (in all colors), a shapeless, silky top, and flats. Also in: acid wash shorts and acid wash denim skirts. ???? THE 80s ARE BACK?
19) The new thing for teenage boys in lower-class economic situations is to bleach their hair and dye it pink and blue.
20) People do not answer the phone in Israel with "Shalom?" They answer " 'alo?" Sometimes without the question mark, just a brisk " 'alo."
21) For Israeli families living in apartments, the elevator is often very small, because only about six families live in apartment buildings together.
22) You want shawarma? Be ready to be really thirsty.
23) You know what Israel doesn't have a lot of? Greek restaurants. On the other hand, you know what they do have a lot of? Bulgarian restaurants.
24) A purse bought at the New Central Bus Station for 30 shekels (about $9) can be found in a boutique in down town Tel Aviv for about 100 shekels (about $30). Or more. Moral of the story: go shopping for accessories in the New Central Bus Station.
25) Walking down the main street in Kfar Saba in the morning, you will most likely encounted many old Israeli men and women accompanied by their Phillipino caretakers.
There are 25 random facts about the little things about this country that have struck me thus far. Now, if you will excuse me, I'm going to go buy some left over borekas for my late lunch at the Makolet (market) down the street from the Sadaka-Reut offices.
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